Easy Ditchlights For The Atlas Dash 8 BW

Atlas has a magnificent locomotive in the Dash 8 BW.  There is one omission – the lack of operating ditchlights.  They modeled the lights but did not choose to light them.   I had earlier put operating ditchlights on Atlas’ SD60 and wondered if the same could not be done here.  The answer was YES, and it’s really easy.

Everything I needed was in my parts box.  I used both .020 and .030 fiber optic, and a piece of Evergreen 3/32” styrene tubing.

The project is more easily done before the Atlas–included cab shades are added – they can easily be damaged.  Remove the shell from the chassis.  I found this to be readily done by grasping the front truck firmly and gently pulling downward – the chassis slides right out.  Set it aside.

 Look into the shell and note how the light pipes are attached.  The black molding which holds them will pull straight out, it’s not glued.  Remove this molding and using a 3/32” bit ream out the slot where the headlight pipe was held.   Also remove the headlight light pipe.  You won’t need it, and you’ll lose the sickly color as well (what were they thinking!).

Prepare a 3/16” length of 3/32” tubing by drilling out the center to about 1/16”  (This is needed so the tubing will properly position and hold the four fibers near the light source.)  Then glue the prepared tubing into the black molding and set aside.

Drill the holes for the optic in the ditchlight molding.  They are detachable, but I chose to drill them while in place.  Start by locating the center of the light with, say, a straight pin and using enough force so a small pilot dimple is made.  Begin drilling with a #80 or smaller bit as a pilot hole.  Once you’ve done this, enlarge to a #77, which will fit the .020 fiber nicely.  You want to go straight back and drill all the way through.  Unlike earlier Atlas (and Kato) shells, there’s nothing to harm on the Dash 8. 

Then you’ll need to drill the pass through holes as indicated in the picture.  You’ll want these large enough and slanted so the fiber will pass through with little fuss.

Place the prepared light guide molding back in its position.  Press firmly to insure it is well seated.

Take some .030 fiber, cut a piece a bit longer than needed, and “bell” one end by holding it close to a hot object.  I use a soldering iron, and it does take some practice.  You simply want the fiber to flare a bit, and the cut end will polish itself in the process.  The “belled” end becomes the visible part of the light.   Insert the fiber through the headlight holes and into the light guide molding.  Remove any excess.  Be sure to get a clean cut because a ragged or crushed cut will damage the fiber and keep light transmission down. 

Repeat for the second headlight fiber.

Take some .020 fiber and again bell one end.  Thread the other end through the ditchlight molding and the pass through hole and the light guide molding.  Be careful not to crush or damage the fiber or light transmission will be impeded.  As with the headlight fibers, trim at the light source end.  Replace the shell on the chassis, and you’re done!  I find light transmission is enhanced a bit by angling the LED up slightly…experiment and use what works best for you.

Now for one last trick!  We’re going to take the excess blue color out of your headlights.  Take an orange Sanford “Sharpie” marking pen and color the LED light source with it.  Don’t use too much or you’ll end up with orange headlights.  If you don’t get it the way you want it, wipe off with an alcohol swab and try again until you get the color light you want.  (I’ve also used yellow, and for some of the “white” LEDs a mixture of both; work with it until you’re satisfied.)